Jonathan Saunders Autumn Winter 2010 The vast, industrial space of the Old Truman Brewery was a perfect blank canvas for Jonathan Saunders’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection. Styled by Katie Grand, the collection consisted of casual, but simultaneously sleek daywear pieces and had a light and unavoidably contemporary feel. Amidst the clean concrete setting, Saunders definitely veered towards a personal take on sportswear - layering looks effortlessly but such in a way that buyers could visually deconstruct them, easily picking out key pieces from what was, overall, a very wearable collection. The choice of colour cleansed the colour palette of the Autumn/Winter trends; alongside stark black and white combinations, cream, grey and navy provided a simple colour foundation. This was then enhanced with an assortment of blues - from sky blue to teal - that were frequently contrasted by sharp zings of orange and sections of silver. This progressive use of colour avoided that sense of unimaginative utility and invigorated what would have otherwise resulted in muted urban pieces. There were a complex variety of cuts, shapes and fabrics within a collection that seemed very relaxed. Cut-off ‘bra tops’ were covered by coloured, sheer sectioned dresses, which provided a contrast to the practical feel in general. In addition, spotted patterns, graduated colour effects from blue to white on both tops and coats, and grey, graphic flower motifs not only added an air of femininity, but also visual interest amidst the blocks of colour. However, perhaps where the collection really impressed was in the playful construction of the garments. Coloured parkas were layered on top of dresses and skirts that were laser-cut to form interesting grid-like patterns. Drop-waist skirts were pulled in by drawstrings, which created texture within an otherwise clean-line collection. Oversized, pleated and tasselled below-the-knee skirts also brought a sense of tailored refinement, but this was quickly forgotten when combined with those red soled, patent ankle boots, courtesy of Mr Christian Louboutin himself. Overall, Saunders’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2010 came like a breath of fresh air on the last day of a rain-soaked London Fashion Week, as it leant towards the crispness of winter as opposed to the weight of autumnal warmth. It was as bracing as the unheated venue, but all in all undeniably refreshing. Annie Chin